One thing I’m noticing is that it’s hard to get good food recommendations from Google; PageRank seems to push good web pages to the top of the results list, but not necessarily good web pages about food. Maybe it’s because food websites are so diffuse, whereas if you want to google for books, you’re likely to get an Amazon link at the top. Hence it’s probably more likely that you’ll get good answers back if you google for best “differential geometry” textbook than if you hunt for newburyport espresso. It’s a quick hypothesis, anyway, and it suggests that what the net needs is a more centralized place for restaurant reviews that everyone trusts. Maybe the absence of such a site is a sign of the esteem in which food reviewers are held more generally. I don’t see Zagat’s coming in at the top of very many search results.
With all that to the side, I’ll put in my two cents here. Adam Rosi-Kessel, having long noted the absence of good espresso in downtown Boston[*], very helpfully noted his discovery of good local coffee in Boston, so I’ll do the same for Newburyport.
As far as I can tell, the only game in Newburyport is Plum Island Coffee Roasters. It’s somewhat away from downtown, near the water and currently (October 30) blocked in by a few enormous boats that have been set on land for the winter. You’d never guess there was a coffeeshop there. To get to it, you have to walk around the boats and over a rutted parking lot, to someplace that looks like a converted warehouse. But once you’re in, the atmosphere is really inviting; windows face out on the water, and there always seem to be lots of people inside. Maybe they all know that it has the best coffee in town. That’s not necessarily a great compliment, given that the competitors seem to be 1) Starbucks; 2) a kitchen-equipment store that also sells weak coffee; and 3) Caffe di Siena, which would be nice if it weren’t apparently run by teenaged girls who couldn’t care less about the quality of their product.
Plum Island, though, does care, and they’ve thus far batted 1.000 on the Making Steve A Cappuccino metric. The foam is always thick, and the espresso is rich without becoming bitter.
While I’m at it, I should give a hat tip to two places in my own neighborhood that I love: Murky Coffee, of course, which makes the best coffee I’ve ever had, anywhere (on a recent morning, I went 45 minutes or so out of my way to get a Classic Cappuccino at Murky — the best cappuccino you will find anywhere — before going to work); and Sparky’s Espresso Café, which is an eight-minute walk from my house and is directly on my path to work. I probably shouldn’t be spending money on espresso on an arbitrary morning, but I kind of can’t avoid it: the coffee is consistently great, the employees are consistently friendly, and it’s right on the walk to work. What do you think I am, superhuman?
I hope I’ve now contributed a tiny bit to the amount of food/coffee information on the tubes. (“The Tubes” is the new “internets.”)
— Jane Jacobs’s explanation for this, or so I imagine, would go like so: downtown Boston, like so many downtowns, is highly active during the day and positively dead at night. Only so many businesses will bother putting down roots in the downtown under these circumstances; if rent is high enough — as it surely is in downtown Boston — only those companies that can afford to have lots of daytime business and no nighttime business will be able to afford the space. This is particularly the case when the downtown contains lots of new buildings and few old buildings, since new buildings will necessarily cost more to rent. Since Starbucks can probably afford to pay city rents, and distribute their costs over its stores in low-rent areas, whereas small coffee shops cannot, we’d expect to see a) few coffeeshops, and b) relatively more Starbucks in downtown areas. There would be more local coffeeshops in areas with lower rent, which means in particular that neighborhoods with lots of old buildings would be more likely to produce indigenous cafés.